Mount Rainier can be the pinnacle or stepping stone of one''s mountaineering career. As with all expeditions, make sure you know as much as possible about the route before your attempt. Be prepared for anything and everything with this guide.Mount Rainier, the most heavily glaciated peak in the contiguous United States, offers an exciting challenge to the mountaineer. This 14,410 foot active volcano is successfully climbed each year by thousands of people.
Reaching the summit requires a vertical elevation gain of more than 9,000 feet over a distance of eight or more miles. Climbers must be in good physical condition and well prepared. Proper physical conditioning can offset the effects of fatigue that lead to mistakes and injuries.
Weather, snow, and route conditions can change rapidly and can make the difference between a pleasant and rewarding experience or tragedy. Obtain a current weather forecast before beginning a climb. Turn back if weather conditions deteriorate. Severe winter-like storms on the mountain are not uncommon during the summer. Contact a climbing ranger for updated information on weather, route conditions, crevasses, rockfall, and avalanches by calling 360-569-2211, extension 2314#.High Camps
High camps on the standard routes are located at Camp Muir on the south side and Camp Schurman on the east side. Climbers must melt snow for drinking water at both high camps. Treat or boil water.
- Camp Muir: Located at 10,188 ft., facilities include a Ranger Station, solar toilet, and the Muir Public Shelter which will accommodate approximately 25 people on a first-come, first-served basis.
- Camp Schurman: Located at 9,702 ft., facilities include a Ranger Station and a solar toilet.
Good Climbing Practices
- Experience: Conditioning climbs on similar glaciated peaks, and participation in mountaineering schools are essential for building experience and good judgment. Avalanche awareness and training in rescue and first aid are vital. Don''t depend on someone else to help you. Be prepared!
- Leadership: The leader should have first hand knowledge of the ascent and descent routes. He or she is responsible for the team members and their observation of good climbing practices.
- Glacier Travel: Climbers should be roped together on glaciers and crevassed snowfields.
- Party Size: A minimum of 2 people is required. A team of 3 people is better able to effect a rescue or obtain help. For winter climbs, a minimum of 4 people is recommended. Maximum party size is 12 people.
Climbing Regulations
Climbers must follow low impact camping regulations.
- Camping is allowed only on permanent snow or ice, or on bare ground areas previously used as campsites. Clearing new tent sites on rocky or snowfree areas is prohibited.
- Travel on established trails to avoid damaging fragile alpine vegetation.
- Climbers must register and pay the climbing fee prior to climbing and must check out upon return. Anyone climbing or hiking on glaciers, or above the normal high camps such as Camp Muir and Camp Schurman, must register and pay the climbing fee.
- Solo climbers traveling above high camps or anywhere on glaciers must obtain prior written permission from the Superintendent. Write: Superintendent, Mount Rainier National Park, Tahoma Woods Star Route, Ashford, WA 98304.Anyone younger than 18 years of age must have permission of his/her parent or legal guardian before climbing above normal high camps.
- Engaging in any business in park areas except in accordance with the provisions of a permit, contract, or other written agreement is prohibited. Leading or participating in an unauthorized guided climb of Mount Rainier is illegal.
Climbing Permits and FeesClimbers must register to go above 10,000 feet or to travel onto glaciers. Primary registration locations are the Paradise Ranger Station, White River Wilderness Information Center, and the Wilkeson Ranger Station. The climbing fee is $15 per person per summit attempt or glacier trek, or $25 per person per year. The fee is payable when registering. Climbing fees help recover costs for climber safety and education, upper mountain human waste management, and program administration.
Reservations are available for all climbing high camps and cost $20. This fee is in addition to the climbing permit fee and does not guarantee a spot in the public shelter at Camp Muir. Call 360-569-HIKE to make reservations (April 1 - September 30 only).
Human Waste
Each year thousands of persons register for summit climbs of Mount Rainier. Another several thousand people day hike to Camp Muir. Each generates trash and uses toilets. The removal of trash and human waste from the upper mountain is an expensive operation. Putting trash and human waste in crevasses or burying it in the snow will only delay the problem to be solved by others. Do not put litter or trash in toilets. Be responsible: Carry out everything you brought in with you.
At Camp Schurman and Camp Muir use toilet facilities. If you must defecate while climbing, use "Blue Bags" to carry out human waste.
"Blue Bags" are available at ranger stations and the high camps. They contain one clear bag, one blue bag, and twist ties. To use the "Blue Bag," defecate on the snow away from the climbing route and rest areas. Collect the waste using the light blue bag like a glove. Turn the blue bag inside-out and secure with a twist tie. Place the blue bag in the clear bag and secure with a twist tie. Deposit them in collection barrels at Camp Muir, Camp Schurman, Camp Hazard (Kautz Glacier) or the "Glacier Toilets" at Emmons and Ingraham Flats. Do not drop used blue bags in trash cans!
There is no ideal solution to the problem of human waste on the mountain. Everyone must help to remove his/her own waste, in order to maintain the best possible climbing experience for all.Winter Climbing
Winter storms on Mount Rainier are frequent and severe, with high winds, deep snow, and extremely poor visibility. Winter conditions generally exist from mid-September to mid-May. All parties attempting a winter ascent should be experienced in winter mountaineering, avalanche forecasting and rescue, and be familiar with the intended routes of ascent and descent. The party size for winter climbing is 12.
Guide Services
1-day climbing instruction, 2-day summit climbs, 5-day climbing seminars, and private climbs, are available through:
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.
535 Dock Street, Suite 209
Tacoma, WA 98402
360-569-2227 (summer) or 253-627-6242 (winter)
4 guide services have been approved to guide on the Emmons Glacier:
Alpine Ascents International, 206-378-1927
American Alpine Institute, 206-671-1505
Cascade Alpine Guides, 425-688-8054
Mount Rainier Alpine Guides, 360-825-3773 (no web site)
Adapted from 