Get Outdoors - Women: Hiking Boots

Footwear for hiking and backpacking can range from approach or all the way up to heavy backpacking boots. What differentiates good hiking shoes and boots from other footwear is that they are made to withstand the forces that terrain, time on the trail and weight place on your feet. Don't try to backpack with running shoes unless you are an experienced backpacker and know that your feet can handle the terrain you will encounter.

The two most important considerations are your intended use of the and the fit. If you are a day hiker or recreational walker, an approach shoe or trail runner is a good choice. These have the light weight and some of the flexibility of an athletic shoe but offer more stability and protection for your foot. If you do hard day hikes and overnight backpacking, try a light hiker. If you carry up to 40 pounds and occasionally encounter some tough trails or long distances, you probably need at least a mid-weight backpacking boot. If you regularly go long distances, hike tough trails or carry heavy loads, you'll need a heavy weight backpacking boot.

There is a wide variation in fit from manufacturer to manufacturer, because each manufacturer uses a different last. The last is the foot-shaped form that is used to put the parts of the boot together. Each manufacturer has its own lasts, with a unique shape. Some use lasts that resemble "high volume" feet and others build boots on forms that resemble "low volume" feet. "Volume" is just what it says: length x width x height. Knowing whether you have low or high volume feet will help you identify manufacturers whose boots tend to fit you. Generally, women's feet are low volume in comparison to men's, so that when women have to buy boots that come only in men's sizes, they often find that a lower volume men's boot works best. We find that boots from European manufacturers tend to be lower volume, but that is not necessarily true.

When you try on a boot, wear the type of sock you will most likely wear with the boot. (For most backpacking, we like a polypro or capilene liner, coupled with a midweight sock.) Before you lace it, you should be able to get your finger down the back behind your heel, and if you will be in situations where your feet may swell or you may sometimes wear extra socks, you may want even a bit more room. Lace the boot fairly tightly, without hurting yourself. Then walk around as much as you can, ideally with the weight you will normally carry. Be sure to go up and down a steep incline. If your heel raises up too much, you need a boot with a narrower heel. If your feet shift forward in the boot or your toes touch the end when you go downhill, the boot doesn't fit. The boot should feel good.

Do not compromise on fit when buying new boots. While very stiff boots will loosen up when broken in, especially around the ankles, don't assume fit problems will be solved by breaking in the boots. If they are tight, rub, chafe or feel wrong out of the box, things will only get worse. Don't succumb to the pressure to buy them, no matter how beautiful they are and how much time you've already spent looking for boots. It really pays to spend some time wearing the boots indoors before you seal them or wear them outside. If they don't pass the test indoors, send or take them back.

If you want to talk the talk, here's a little bit on boot construction, starting from the top down. When a boot is built, the uppers are stretched over the last and the sole materials are attached to the uppers. Uppers are mostly made from leather and leather and fabric combinations. Generally, heavier boots designed for tougher terrain and harder use have all leather uppers. The leather can be smooth, top-grain leather or roughed-up Nubuck. Both are fine. (Suede is for pumps; that nappy leather on good boots is Nubuck). Leather and fabric combinations are used in lighter boots and approach shoes.

There is debate about the utility and desirability of a Gore-Tex liner in hiking boots. On the pro side, it clearly offers a completely waterproof and breathable sock that is sewn into the boot. Some women like the extra security of a Gore-Tex liner. On the other hand, many women have hiked in leather boots that have been treated for waterproofness for many years without leaks. They regard the liner as extra expense, and find the extra layer of fabric inside the boot that moisture has to pass through superfluous. In any event, we recommend that all leather and leather and fabric boots be treated with a waterproofing product. The sorry fact is hat most often when our feet are wet it's from perspiration, stepping in a big puddle that goes over the boot top, or hiking in wet grass that soaks our sock tops and wicks down.

The insole is the layer that's inserted into the boot and rests on the sole on the inside. The insoles of many boots, even from the best manufacturers, simply don't provide much support. If you have high arches or otherwise tricky feet, or your feet just tend to hurt when you walk, try removing the manufacturer's insole and replacing it with a good, supportive insole. We like Spenco insoles, which come in all varieties; some with great arch support. Superfeet are also good general insoles.

Hiking boots get their stability from a strong midsole. It used to be that it was a big deal for a hiking boot to have a steel shank, which provided needed rigidity to the sole. But steel shanks are disappearing from all but the heaviest boots. Most light-to-medium hiking boots today have a nylon midsole that provides ample stability. A good nylon midsole provides the needed stability and protection and is designed to flex in the right places for your foot.

Many boot manufacturers use proprietary materials for their outer soles. The major manufacturers are all pretty good. The old days of having to look for a "Vibram" sole are over, although Vibram remains good and is a standard for certain technical boots. If you'll be scrambling, you might want to look for a stickier sole. There's more on boots for rock scrambling in our Mountaineering Boots article.

One feature that's worth paying attention to is the lacing system. Make sure that your boots are easy to lace tight and will stay laced. Sometimes the tongue just won't sit right for the shape of your foot, which can also be an annoyance. We often replace those nasty round laces first thing. Flat laces tend to stay tied better than round ones, although they won't work with some lacing systems.

Take care of your boots. Wash them off when you get back from a trip. Waterproof them regularly. Condition leather boots every year. Dry them gently. If you set your boots on the heater grate or too close to the fire to dry, don't be surprised to see the sole start to delaminate. Good boots well cared for will make you happy for many years.